Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts

Friday, September 27, 2013

July | 2012 | Fleas and dogs in Barcelona


Porktie, an English language magazine in Barcelona is giving away a Vespa rental for two, which you can redeem at anytime in the next month.


These contests are genuine and awesome fun. I’ve already been to see ‘Exit through the gift shop’ in Monjuic’s open air cinema thanks to them, and T won the last Vespa contest.


All you have to do is go on Porkties’s Facebook page, ‘like’ em (obviously), and then when they announce the contest at 1pm today, you’ll need to leave a comment on the contest. Then comes the fun part, contact as many of your Facebook friends as you can and get them to ‘like’ your comment. The comment with the most number of ‘likes’ wins. Simples!


Mr.T got a ridiculous 59 votes last time, someone out there should break that record!






Oh the shame of it! I’ve become a symptom of my time. Head down, scurrying out to work and then wandering home, always lost inside my myopic little world of worries; it took a facebook post for me to realise my neighbourhood squat has been evicted and bricked up.


Now Barrialonia, as it was called, was not just a squat.


It was a community center. It used to host concerts, political meetings and community parties. They celebrated Id last year by cooking up a massive pot of biriyani and setting tables and chairs out on La Rambla del Raval for an open air picnic for the neighbourhood.


They organised makeshift movie nights on the Rambla with a small projector and screen, and anyone interested just had to park their bum on the street and get comfortable. They hosted debates and talks about Real Democracy and kept the movement alive between the more high-profile marches.


The council’s reasons for shutting the squat down are ‘structural concerns’ with the building. They used similar excuses to shut down other squats in Barcelona in the past, including la Makabra, Miles de Viviendas and Ruina Amalia. In all these cases, the squats served as community centres which hosted art classes and exhibitions, spaces for political debate and spaces to celebrate cultures.


What follows is usually either swift demolition of the building or comprehensive bricking up of all entrances, which is then followed by….. nothing.


Nada.


They won’t attempt to replace the space with a council built community center, sports center or art space. They can’t afford to. That much is blatantly obvious, this being an economic crisis and all. So why go and kick the sand box over in the first place? Is it so bad to have people with initiative doing something in their community?


Dear government, haven’t you realised it is the people with ideas, opinions and initiative who will save you from this nightmarish crisis?






Earlier this year for my birthday, I decided to buy myself a water lily. I ordered it online from Penlan Perennials.


My little lily arrived, was duly planted, and promptly withered and died. When moving house we were about to fling it out but realised that under the rotten mess, there were new shoots. So the lily moved house with us. Then sat in a plastic bag in the bathroom for about a week. Then got dumped in plant pot with an inch of water over it.


Then, for no logical reason, it decided to fight like a muthafuka!


Yay!


To celebrate this little clear water revival we had going, I decided we needed biodiversity. Sadly the aquatic frogs in the fish shop were too delicate for al fresco living and the turtles were bought and returned within 12 hours. I fulfilled a childhood dream of having turtles, but they tried to eat the lily.


I know. Duh!


I then decided to take my little fish net, a glass jar and a reluctant husband (who eventually had more fun that he’ll admit) down to Parc Ciutadella to gather pond creatures instead.


My ambitions were small. A water boatman, pond skater, water beetle or similar. I had no hopes of tadpoles or dragonfly larvae.


What we found instead was nothing but barren ponds. Even the big boating pond appeared to have nothing more than fish, turtles and crayfish (the cockroaches of the fresh water world). No insects. Zilch!


I’m naively shocked. Yes this is in the middle of a large crowded city, and we’ve made no place for the poor wee buggers, but insects are tenacious. They don’t need a gilded invitation or the red carpet rolled out. They turn up, steal your spot on the couch, kick their shoes off, switch the telly on and ask for a beer.


A near complete absence of the single most important section of the ecosystem, from what I assumed was a natural oasis (park pond) makes me suspect the good city of Barcelona is waging chemical warfare on our little amigos.


Internet research threw up very little on treatment of water for public ponds. You can read the latest on pond conservation at the European Pond Conservation Network, but it’s very boffin (UK Slang for scientist) orientated and has no papers on urban conservation. Boo!


One study which does look promising is the Reading Urban Pond Project by students at Reading University. The students have created several ponds in the city of Reading and then left them as blank canvases. They are now going to monitor nature’s ability to populate these ponds and what level of biodiversity can be achieved by simply letting it be.


Have I revealed too much of my inner geek with this post?


Possibly. But…..


It’s not all topless lesbians and waking up in a nest of beer cans people, it’s also about making space for the frogs.


Start your biodiversity patch today! Bring back insects to Barcelona!






After craving Ramen Noodles for months and months, I finally broke.


I found a relatively easy looking recipe, which used plain language and explained all most of the Japanese terms.


For the ingredients I went to Yang Kuang, on 12 Passeig de Sant Juan near Arc de Triomf. This is a brilliant wee store specializing in imported Chinese food. I found most of the ingredients I needed, enough to not feel bad about ignoring the rest anyway. I also bought a bag of frozen pork and vegetable dumplings for about 2.75 Euros, and they tasted awesome!


If you go looking for this place, ignore the other poncy ‘gourmet’ shops on the street. You will get half the selection and pay double the price. Yang Kuang looks like a warehouse and the produce is all garish plastic, and vacuum packed bags with cheap paper labels. A more reassuring sign of authenticity than wicker baskets and pretty labels.


Anyway, almost 24 hours after starting to cook…… ta da!



The recipe I kinda followed:


Confessions
I used ready made chicken stock, ginger paste and pepper to make the soup, instead of this whole carry on (described below). I used Pak choi instead of spinach, and I couldn’t find naruto (a slice of cured fish with a pink swirly pattern). I bought spicy bamboo shoot instead of shinachiku and cheap rice wine instead of sake.


Note: Don’t be a eejeet like me and ask the Chinese shop girls about the ingredients; although they all have Chinese origins the recipe uses Japanese names.


Shoyu Ramen


Ingredients: (for 4 servings)


1kg chicken bones for 1.5 liter chicken soup,1 white onion (leek), 30 grams ginger, 2 liters water, 4-5 tablespoons soy sauce, 3 tablespoons sake, 1/3 teaspoon salt, a little pepper and sesame oil, 4 balls of chinese noodles, 8 pieces yakibuta (chinese pork ham), 4 pieces naruto, 1/2 bunch spinach, 1/2 sheet nori, 1/2 green onion, a little shinachiku (chinese flavored bamboo shoots)


Preparation


Soup:
1. Clean chicken bone, remove fat and sinew, wash well. Then cut it into large butsugiri.
2. Boil water in pot, put bones in it. Boil bones until the color of the bone changes. Place bones on strainer to drain water.
3. Prepare a large deep pot with water (1.5 liter), leek, ginger, and bones together. Start to boil on a high flame.
4. When it comes to a boil, skim the scum.
5. Continue heating for 1 hour with mid-low flame, while skimming the scum often.
6. Filter it on the bowl by strainer with thin cloth or kitchen towel on top. Add Soya sauce to taste.


Toppings:
1. Cut spinach into strips and steam.
2. Cut nori into quarter sizes.
3. Slice green onion into thin koguchigiri (thin slice), soak in water, then dry with cloth or paper towel.


Putting the dish together:
1. Heat up soup stock, add soy sauce, sake, salt, pepper and sesame oil.
2. Boil water in a large pot, boil noodles till just cooked (about 4 min).
3. Set serving bowls warm, pour soup, put noodles.
4. Add yakibuta, naruto, spinach, shinachiku and nori on top.
5. Shake pepper and garnish with green onion as desired.


This is the most common way to make Shoyu Ramen. To make it much easier use ready made soup sock.


If yakibuta pork is not available, make it as follows:


Set 600 grams of pork block tied with cotton string in tsukejiru soup for a while. Tsukejiru (1 teaspoon grated ginger, 3 tablespoons of each sugar, soy sauce and sake, a little pepper). Put oil in a chinese frying pan, fry the block of meat until it browned, add rest of tsukejiru in to pan and cook in the oven till tender (about an hour).





These young ladies were feeling repressed as a result of their sexuality.


So they painted their nipples black and drove through the city on the top of a bus.


I don’t think they feel repressed any more.






Since I neglected the photo blog project, the order of pictures has been completely messed up. This picture is from Sunday last week.


This was taken in the hot harsh dawn of the San Juan party on Bogatell beach. Doesn’t she look peaceful?






The Rainbow is cool.


I know it. You know it. The baby knows it.




Sunday, September 22, 2013

May | 2012 | Fleas and dogs in Barcelona


This could apply to any art or job. You know what ‘fantastic’ looks like, and you also know you don’t produce it.


American radio presenter, Ira Glass talks about the embarrassment of your taste exceeding your talent.





‘Er, Excuse me’ A studenty looking girl stopped me in the street.


‘We’re making a film about injustice and exploitation and we’re looking for volunteers to be in the video.’


Me (Straining to fully understand her): Err, hmm maybe. What do I have to do?


She becons to a shirtless young man standing back. ‘Well you can start by grabbing a hold of the leash attached to his dog collar and pulling him down the street…’


…..and….
…………….. I’m back in the Raval!



Saturday, September 21, 2013

Fleas and dogs in Barcelona


Yesterday I was at the right place at the right time, with the right amount of money (1.50 Euros) to buy the last doughnut from Barcelona’s famous doughnut man. I had just taken the first bite of my doughnut when a man called out.


Doughnut man: Sorry that was my last one. I’m sorry little one. Tomorrow you can get my first doughnut.


Good-natured cries of disappointment go up. A little 3 year old boy looks devastated. I feel horrible.


Me (whispering to the doughnut man): I’ll share half with him, if they like.


Doughnut man: Would you like to have half a doughnut?


Both parents shake their heads ‘no’. Behind them, the little boy shakes his head vigorously ‘yes’.


I beckon to him and he comes running over, and we split the doughnut. He stands next to me looking a bit uncertain. I smile at him. He leans in, and gently kisses me on the cheek.


Awwww!


The doughnut man is laughing at me.


Doughnut man: Now you know! Now you know!


Me: What?


Doughnut man: Now you know what it feels like for me, to get a kiss and thank you at work every day!



Que bien Bambolino!




This is the doughnut man in action. He also featured in Shakira’s video which she filmed in Barcelona in 2010.








It started innocently enough.


First, I started closing the balcony doors when it got dark. Then we used 2 throws on the bed, then dug out the duvet.


Comfort food crept onto the menu. Roasts, soups, pumpkin and goats cheese bread and banana and chocolate muffins. Food became increasingly to share. Gregelia’s Pork Roast of Perfection, Louise’s Crumble of Glory, T’s Sumptuous Steak Pie and Iran’s Heavenly Beef Stew.


No, I lie. Iran is a horrible cook.


I try not to eat any of her cooking. She never washes after going to the toilet.


And tends to trail cat litter pebbles into unlikely parts of the house.


It’s just the kind of inconsiderate thing she does. I told her, one of these days I’m gonna cook her with barbecue sauce. She said, until then I have to clean up her shit. Witch.


Evil cats aside, the final stage in My Winter Watch came today.


While rummaging through the clean clothes pile, I spotted them and all alone in the house, I went    phwoaaaarrrrr!!!!!!!!!






Little did I realise staying in Barceloneta puts me in the frontline of attack from giant man-eating cigarette butts, flying drinks cans and banana surfboards.


But I should not fear. According to the true chronicles of Herois de Carn i Ossis (Heroes in the flesh), we have a stupendous cast of superheroes protecting the good people of Barcelona. There is, ranked in ascending order of superhero powers, and descending order of creative naming:



  • super noi net – Super Clean Boy

  • el salvador de la platja – The Saviour of the Beach

  • la protectora de la sorra – The Protectress of the Sand

  • noia meravella – Wonder Girl


I’m not sure why they ran out of beach related titles by number four. Banana Surf board girl would be so much better.


In addition to this reassuring news, the council would also like to inform you that jumping your motorcycle over cars is strictly prohibited.


Seriously guys, nobody is impressed by those stunts anymore.






Ok, so maybe it doesn’t really mean ´Kill the white man´, but I´m a headline pimp.*


T taught Victor the booyakasha word.


V: What does that mean?
T: Burn the white man
V (delighted): Thats brilliant! I love the stuff you can get away with, as long as you sing it in a reggae song.


Meanwhile, one of the African guys who hang around about the Cube was pacing up and down on the sidewalk. He was raging and ranting in his language. Normally this particular gentleman is jaunty and sardonic. Always dressed in a blood-red polo T shirt, red jumper, red shoes and a red beret. Sort of french chic. I´v watched him get shaken down by the police, who made him take off his shoes and belt and searched his bag; while he just laughed at them. The three of them, the laughing black man dressed in red and the two patient cops were juxtaposed against a bright yellow wall. It was a beautiful picture, and I would have taken it if I wasn´t so scared of the cops.



T (to red): Que pasa?
Red: Some fucking people stole my shoes. They stole my shoes!
Us: Sympathetic sounds
V: Booyakasha!
Robby: Que puta!
Red: Yah man, if I find them, I´ll kill them.
T: Did they take anything else?
Red: No, just my shoes man. My shoes!
V: Booyakasha!


Red, losing interest in us wanders off.


V: I actually have a pair of shoes behind the bar which I could give him.
T: Would it be the right size?
V: Yeah I think it would. And its the perfect colour, red.
Me: Aww that would be such a cool gesture. Are you going to give it to him?
V (looking uncertain): I don´t know. I´m scared of giving clothes to people in case they reject them. Maria threw a T-shirt back in my face once.
Me: I´m sure he wouldn´t. Maria is crazy anyway.
T: So is he.
V: Nah, I´m not going to give him the shoes. Racist bastard kept shouting burn the white man….
Us: erm… think you were the one shouting Booyakasha…
V: Well, he didn’t disagree with me now, did he? Racist f!


*Geek note:
Booyaka is Jamaican patois which means a lot of things, including the sound of gun shots. Booyakasha is probably just a variation of the same word and was made famous by Ali G aka Sacha Baron hate-him-or-love-him Cohen.
– Some people claim Booyakasha means kill the white man in Swahili. But Swahili for white man is mzungu, which makes even a Patois-Swahili hybrid unlikely.





We converged, more by chance and less by design, at Ryans Beach in Barceloneta once again. It was a pleasant evening with a soothing sun. We sat on the terrace drinking pints and bemoaning our different fates. Too much work, too little work, unemployed and so on. Comfortable, languid and bored.


The peace shattered in a second however, when a fight erupted between an African and a Moroccan on the lane separating Ryans Beach Bar from the terrace.


I refer to ethnic identities here, because when you belong to the criminal world (as these two gentlemen did) in Barcelona, ethnic identity defines you, what you do, how you operate and who you answer to. ‘Pakistani’ refers to any young man from the Indian subcontinent – on Barceloneta beach, Pakistanis patrol the beach with plastic bags offering you water, beer, fanta (in a loud voice) and marijuana and hashish (in a quieter voice). The African boys- consist of various loosely connected gangs of young men from countries like Senegal and Nigeria, who practically live at the Cubes. They specialise in selling marijuana and cocaine and bag snatching. In the evenings they sometimes get their drums out and spend hours dancing to African rhythms. The Moroccans used to specialise in bag snatching, mugging and dealing various drugs, but their presence on the beach has been waning. Perhaps an under radar turf war is being waged.



Back to the fight


One tall sinewy African man. One furious looking Moroccan. The terrace was captivated. The Moroccan paused to take his knapsack and shirt of. ‘Hit him now! Kick hi
m when he’s taking the shirt of!’ Did I yell that? Surely I didn’t yell that? The advice fell on deaf ears anyway. The African man was a firm follower of the Marquess of Queensberry by the looks of it, all fair play and gentleman punches.


The Moroccan set aside his bag and clothes and got a few punches in before going down. Instead of ending the fight there, he was then allowed to get back up! What kind of street fighting was this? Bloody Marquess of Queensberry! Up came the Moroccan, ripped off the African’s shirt, then his T-shirt, going  hell-for-leather. ‘Poke him in the eye!’ came the yell from the terrace. Not me this time. Our entire table had got up to have a better look by now, leaving me to guard the bags. No celebrity has ever received more rapt attention.  ’Poke him in the eye!’ the shout was repeated. He didn’t poke him in the eye, but he walloped him one on the jaw. The Moroccan tried to get up for the second time, got pushed back down and this time he stayed down. Friends of both fighters came to pull them away from the scene before the police arrived. The fight had gone on for a good 10 minutes by now, but there was no sign of the police.


Mark picked up the discarded clothes, bags and phone from the fight. He approached the African dude first to offer him his stuff back. He took all the stuff apart from the phone. Mark keeps the phone and so gets another claim to fame. He becomes one of the few people to hustle a hustler, preach to a preacher, pimp a ……you get the picture.


Two minutes later the Mossos (One of Barcelona’s police forces) pulls up on the promenade in front of the terrace. Two burly officers get out, march up to the man building  sand sculptures and bust him for having lamps inside the sculpture. Open flames are a risk to public safety man!



Thursday, September 19, 2013

September | 2010 | Fleas and dogs in Barcelona


I was talking to Kamran, the young man from Pakistan, who works at the British Fish n Chip shop in the Raval, Barcelona. This shop sells delectables such as IRN BRU, Vimto, Lilt, Lucozade, Dandelion and Burdock, Ginger Beer, chip buttys (A bun with chips) and toast with Marmite. All little bits of food which can cure a homesick Britisher. Do you have a British friend feeling homesick? Bring them to the chip shop and buy them a fish n chip supper. It’s a wee unassuming shop, but beloved to the homesick Brit in Barcelona.


Find it right behind the big bronze cat at Rambla del Raval 26. Or call them for a home delivered fish and chip supper or a pie and chip supper (T 934 411 134).


Fish n Chip shop


Kamran: Last month Hrithik Roshan came to the chip shop.


Me: No way! Awesome!


Kamran: Yeah, he sat on the terrace and told the waiter that he was a big Bollywood star, so the guy called me. It was my day off, but I came down and met him. It was great!


Me: Oooooooo Hrithik Roshan! I used to have the hots for him when I was sixteen thirteen. That´s so cool you got to meet him. Have any big Pakistani celebrities come to the Raval?


Kamran: Nahi, Pakistan se sirf behn chuth athe


- Nope, only sister-fuckers come from Pakistan.



Hrithik Roshan. Dreamy!






Dear Nan,


Yesterday I did something in Barcelona you wouldn’t approve of. I got caught.


I was taking the Metro home from Placa Catalunya with a friend when it happened. We had just reached the barriers, when I realised my T10 (10 journey ticket) had run out. I had no money to buy a new one, so I decided to piggyback on Enrico’s last ticket. Yes me, the same person who’s too shy to call Bingo, because I can’t stand the policing from the bingo ladies. The very same person.


It went swimmingly at first. We went through the barriers and down the escalator with a spring in our step, riding high on illicit excitement. I was rubbing shoulders with the world of crime here! Oh what a rush! I could probably start calling the African dudes on Barceloneta beach ‘brother’ after this. Surely they would recognise a fellow hustler when they saw me?


Sadly my life of crime was short-lived. We got to the bottom of the escalator and paused to check which platform the train was on. That was our undoing.


‘Perdona!’ the calm but firm voice of the guard sank like a rock in my heart. Three seconds of pretended deafness and preoccupation later, he was standing in front of us blocking the way. Sh*t! Enrico turned on his best ‘let’s be friends’ expression. In Catalan, he explained how we were generally decent (erm?) law-abiding commuters who always bought a ticket, but today we were broke. ‘Unfortunately for you, my supervisor saw you and sent me to get you. You’ll need to talk to him’, the guard explained patiently. I kept my mouth shut so they wouldn’t realise I didn’t speak Spanish, much less Catalan. An easy feat when you’re trying to figure out how to pay a 25 Euro multa (fine). It may not seem a lot, but it is if you had to try and steal a 1 euro and 25 cent journey to begin with. Great! I’m going to jail for 1.25 Euros!

Back at the barriers, the guard instructed me to stay behind and took Enrico over to talk to the supervisor. Oh the agonised guilt. Oh the gnashing of teeth and kicking of self. It was several minutes of the nail biting kind, before Enrico reappeared, looking sheepish but pleased. No multa? ‘No multa. But a little gift’ he said as we rushed to catch the last train. Gift?


When he met the supervisor, he had repeated his story- Honest citizens with a cash flow problem. The supervisor listened and nodded before giving him a light warning and letting him go. A 10 year veteran of Barcelona, Enrico pushed his luck, ‘Thank you very much, but I can’t go anywhere. Like I said, we used our last ticket’. ‘Ah yes’ the supervisor moved towards the ticket machines, ‘Where do you need to go?’ ‘Les Planes sir’


Enrico flourished a full, free T10 ticket, laughing incredulously.


So, like I’ve said before Nan, Barcelona is a fascinating city. Every once in a while She gives you a great thumbs-up when you really need one. Most other days though, She uses another finger.






T and I were walking home from work the other night when we came across this. My video skills don’t do them justice, but as you can see in the photograph below, even the guys who sell glow-in-the-dark tat to drunks and tourists have taken time out to sit and listen. The girls were enchanting.





We converged, more by chance and less by design, at Ryans Beach in Barceloneta once again. It was a pleasant evening with a soothing sun. We sat on the terrace drinking pints and bemoaning our different fates. Too much work, too little work, unemployed and so on. Comfortable, languid and bored.


The peace shattered in a second however, when a fight erupted between an African and a Moroccan on the lane separating Ryans Beach Bar from the terrace.


I refer to ethnic identities here, because when you belong to the criminal world (as these two gentlemen did) in Barcelona, ethnic identity defines you, what you do, how you operate and who you answer to. ‘Pakistani’ refers to any young man from the Indian subcontinent – on Barceloneta beach, Pakistanis patrol the beach with plastic bags offering you water, beer, fanta (in a loud voice) and marijuana and hashish (in a quieter voice). The African boys- consist of various loosely connected gangs of young men from countries like Senegal and Nigeria, who practically live at the Cubes. They specialise in selling marijuana and cocaine and bag snatching. In the evenings they sometimes get their drums out and spend hours dancing to African rhythms. The Moroccans used to specialise in bag snatching, mugging and dealing various drugs, but their presence on the beach has been waning. Perhaps an under radar turf war is being waged.



Back to the fight


One tall sinewy African man. One furious looking Moroccan. The terrace was captivated. The Moroccan paused to take his knapsack and shirt of. ‘Hit him now! Kick hi
m when he’s taking the shirt of!’ Did I yell that? Surely I didn’t yell that? The advice fell on deaf ears anyway. The African man was a firm follower of the Marquess of Queensberry by the looks of it, all fair play and gentleman punches.


The Moroccan set aside his bag and clothes and got a few punches in before going down. Instead of ending the fight there, he was then allowed to get back up! What kind of street fighting was this? Bloody Marquess of Queensberry! Up came the Moroccan, ripped off the African’s shirt, then his T-shirt, going  hell-for-leather. ‘Poke him in the eye!’ came the yell from the terrace. Not me this time. Our entire table had got up to have a better look by now, leaving me to guard the bags. No celebrity has ever received more rapt attention.  ’Poke him in the eye!’ the shout was repeated. He didn’t poke him in the eye, but he walloped him one on the jaw. The Moroccan tried to get up for the second time, got pushed back down and this time he stayed down. Friends of both fighters came to pull them away from the scene before the police arrived. The fight had gone on for a good 10 minutes by now, but there was no sign of the police.


Mark picked up the discarded clothes, bags and phone from the fight. He approached the African dude first to offer him his stuff back. He took all the stuff apart from the phone. Mark keeps the phone and so gets another claim to fame. He becomes one of the few people to hustle a hustler, preach to a preacher, pimp a ……you get the picture.


Two minutes later the Mossos (One of Barcelona’s police forces) pulls up on the promenade in front of the terrace. Two burly officers get out, march up to the man building  sand sculptures and bust him for having lamps inside the sculpture. Open flames are a risk to public safety man!



Tuesday, September 17, 2013

January | 2012 | Fleas and dogs in Barcelona


I burst out laughing when I walked past this shop window for the first time last week. It sits on Calle Mallorca, sandwiched between the brassy credit-card-maxing designer boutiques on Passeig de Gràcia and the slightly more genteel antique and art shops of Calle de Pau Claris.


It was love at first sight – An entire shop dedicated to sex furniture. Mobiliario erótico!



Sleek leather recliner/chaise lounge hybrids, variously shaped floor cushions which probably need user manuals, and the pièce de résistance, a convulsing white bed in a pool of soft focus light.


In keeping with my carefully cultivated blasé city slicker attitude, I ran home and told everybody. I even threw in some enthusiastic pumping arm movements by way of illustration, but my (truly blasé) friends remained unimpressed.


A lesser journalist would have abandoned the story by now, but not me. Somewhere in this city there was a lonely unappreciated bed convulsing obscenely in a window, and by god people were going to know about it!


So I walked by yesterday, equipped with my phone camera on video mode, but as I rounded the corner I saw a couple of workers taping up a giant bed sized cardboard box on the pavement. Did someone buy the bed? No. Much worse. There were more cardboard boxes, brown paper blocking out the windows, and written in big scary pink letters across both windows – liquidación!


Oh hell! The damn recession claimes another victim. Civilization is in serious trouble when erotic frolicking takes a hit. Is nothing sacred anymore?


For those of you who care, this is what we lost -






Even amongst the seething mass of colourful crazy inhabitants of Raval, he stood out like a dark tower. Sporting a big bushy beard, long hair, filthy bare feet and eyes which a kindly person given to gross understatements might describe as stark raving mad.


He seemed to just crop up on the Raval one day. Already geared to full throttle insanity. A Blue-Peter nutter, pre made before the show. For two weeks he strode up and down La Rambla de Raval shouting his rage to the skies or rocking in doorways, growling and muttering to himself.


Something about him, about those demons howling out of his eyes and reaching out to pull us in, made the Ravaliers kind. When the police rounded on him, a homeless alcoholic shuffled up and talked them out of arresting him. Street thugs shrugged off his physical and verbal assaults with no attempt at retribution. Men walking by would stop and offer him cigarettes. Some days he would accept a black coffee and a slice of bread from us, kiss our hands and call us beautiful. Other days he’d spit and call us whores.


He told us stories. Of the mafia-like woman who lived down the road and her evil son who brandished his pistol at him. Of the electricity shooting out of his feet which prevents him from wearing shoes. Of his family who went on holiday, and how he somehow got locked out of the house. ´This is why I’m like this’ he gestures at his dirty clothes and blackened feet, ‘And now that man with the gun is going to kill me’.
For two weeks, Mr. Electric Feet was everywhere.


Then he was gone. A silent full stop.


Raval life flowed in to fill the space he left empty. Comfortingly normal chaos resumed.


A month passed. Then a neatly groomed young man in his late twenties walked in. He handed in a twenty euro note and asked for change. When he was given two 10 euro notes he handed one back. ‘For the coffees’.


We were confused ‘Do you want a coffee?’ ‘No it’s for the coffees from before’. Our confusion increased ‘Coffees from before? We don’t remember you mate’.


‘Never mind, keep the money anyway’ he shrugs and turns to leave. Just as he walks out the door, his smiling brown eyes meet mine and from their depths a cheerful little demon waves back.


‘I think….’
‘Didn’t he remind you of…..’
‘Kind of looked like….’


I think Mr. Electric Feet is going to be alright.




I heard somewhere there are only three kinds of people- the haves, the have nots and the have not paid for what they have!


I’d like to add another, the have not realised they are paying for what others have.





Travel well and good luck on the next adventure Socks.


Barcelona is going to be a greyer, sadder place without your ball hogging, sausage lovin, stubby tail wagging, wise eyed, cool cat coolness padding through the streets.



Saturday, September 14, 2013

Sonar 2012 | Fleas and dogs in Barcelona

I learned a few things at Sonar this weekend which may be useful to others. Each lesson has an anecdote, so bear with me.


Friday night


I was going to Sonar! Woohoo! It was all so exciting, until I reached the ticket checkers at the gate. Having scanned my print out, he then sent me along to the ticket verification office where a nice man told me that I had been sold a fake ticket. I wasn’t the only one. All around me girls and boys were standing around a bit shell-shocked, mumbling stuff about buying their tickets from the friend of a friend.
Bummer!
I was ushered along to the ticket office where I had to buy a one night ticket for the eye watering price of 65 Euros. Ouch!

Lesson number 1: Friends of friends can con you in Barcelona


Saturday morning


While recovering from a fantastic night, our friend calls us to assure me I will be getting my money back. She got them from an office colleague who she had now threatened with a severe head kicking unless he coughed up.

Lesson number 2: Don’t con people who know where you live and work


Saturday night


The ticket checker had told me my other ticket was probably fake, but he couldn’t verify it untill Saturday night. So I arrived planning to try the ticket and then if all failed, buying another painfully expensive night pass. But this was the last night of Sonar, and we arrived at 11:30 pm to the sight of heart sinking ‘Sold Out’ signs. I tried my luck with the fake one, which stubbornly refused to pass the scanner. A security guard was summoned and I was handed over. Putting on a brave face I said goodbye to wiser friends (who had the sense to buy direct from the vendors).


The security guy directed me down a passage at the end of which I was to go left and find the ticket verification office. I went down that passage, and at the end I found an entrance to Sonar on my right, and the exit on my left. I don’t know if this was a result of poor organisation or a kindly ‘look the other way’ approach by the guards towards duped schmucks like myself: both of which are equally possible in Barcelona.


Either way, the gods gave me a chance and I took it.

Lesson number 3: You don’t always have to turn left as instructed. Sometimes you can turn right and slip past the gate! Whoop Whoop!